Monday, July 2, 2018

Arts & Crafts & Sandinsanity Returns

Today started out with a few Arts & Crafts. Making a rubber gasket for the rudder shaft stuffing box.
1/4" rubber for gasket
Prety simple but you'd be amazed how many people don't know how to make a gasket.
Cut hole for shaft
Bought these handy hole punches at Princess Auto. Indispensable for this king of work. The gold coloured sharpie shows up well on the black rubber.
Looking down with rudder box in place
Ready for installation (not yet though)
Next thing I had to do was scrounge through my collection of bronze fasteners. I got these from a generous fella on the boating forums. Probably coulda used more but didn't want to seem greedy.
Small collection of bronze fasteners.
Some of these will be used for the swim platform and the bronze screws for the rudder stuffing box as shown above. The others I don't know yet. I also received a few stainless steel screws suitable for holding the engine in place.

What it all looks like mocked up.
Mocked up
This backing block will get at least one layer of carbon fiber and a few layers of glass. It'll definitely be strong. 

Next step onto fairing the rudder (again). I've ordered the carbon fiber for it. Would like to do a resin infusion on that so keep an eye out here for more details.

And today's special feature. The Sandinsanity Returns!



Standby....

Saturday, June 30, 2018

Rudder & Drive Shafts

First task of the day is to locate the proper position for the rudder shaft tube. Thought about it and thought about it and decided to go with the plumb bob & ole' Dead Eye! I have to be careful and fill in the oversize hole in stages. First will be to put two layers of 18 oz glass over the hole. Problem is there's a 2" fiberglass pipe that extends below the bottom. Ok, Arts & Crafts day!

Cutting holes in glass for bottom patch
 I eventually rounded off the patches above. Below I'm covering the fiberglass tube with packing tape. This will prevent the epoxy from sticking to it until I want it to.
Packing tape release all
 The next challenge I have is how to provide some clamping pressure on the patches until they cure. Working upside down under the boat is not one of my favorite things to do.
Foam rubber pressure
So what I decided to do was use some foam rubber from the Admiral's sewing room to push up on the patches until they cure.
Foam putting pressure on patch
As you can see above the foam pushes up nicely on the fiberglass. The plastic sheet insures it'll separate easily.
Counterforce
To counter the force of pushing up on the patch and fiberglass tube I laid on about 80 lbs of lead. That should hold it in place.

Once that was laid up and curing I puttered around with the drive train. Just mocking it up for now to see how it'll all come together.
Python Drive with drive shaft attached
I've seen this setup in my dreams for years. Now after something like 7 years of kicking this thing around my basement it's finally in the boat. I had to lift the engine to get it lined up.
Python drive shaft installed.
This drive shaft is exactly 1 meter long. Just so happens that's exactly how much we stretched the hull. I wanted the engine to remain in the same position as the original design for stability reasons. Underneath the engine we'll have a 50 USG water bladder for ballast and fresh water use as well. Bringing total F/W onboard to 175 USG including the hot water heater.

Sorry, no video today. Maybe next time.

Standby.....








Thursday, June 28, 2018

At last Progress

So now that the skeg is permanently affixed to the boat I can move on getting the steering & running gear setup. First up is the rudder.
Mockup rudder shaft slightly off center.
The hole for the rudder shaft is a bit off so I had to enlarge it. See video below.
Mocking up steering gear parts
Just roughly stacked are the components for the rudder. A heafty block of white oak will be glued to the bottom and fixed with a couple layers of carbon fiber & glass. On top of that is the rudder shaft stuffing box. A fairly large plank of white oak will take the place of that small piece of plywood and will hold the pilot bearing, hydraulic ram and rudder position indicator.
Looking down through the rudder shaft hole.
The rudder shaft hole is lined with a piece of fiberglass pipe. Only 4 inches long. I had to get it as true to vertical as possible. Small wedges cut from shim shingles worked perfectly!
Python drive bolted into place.
While the epoxy is setting up on the rudder shaft tube I decided to bolt the Python Drive into place. Not really much to it, just 6 bolts holding it to the bulkhead. Now that it's in I can position the engine with the jack shaft and work on getting it bolted into place.
Stern bearing carrier
The plastic fitting is Marelon. I couldn't find the correct bronze fitting. The Marelon will get epoxy glued to the stern tube (fiberglass) Not too worried about it coming apart. The stern bearing carrier will be bolted and set in an epoxy base. More on that later.

That's about it for today. Youtube video coming up later.

Standby....

Wednesday, June 20, 2018

Skeg attached! Minor Milestone

One of the tasks I have to get out of the way before I can move onto the rest of the drive train is setting the skeg. The skeg is a single piece of very heavy walled Stainless Steel channel. Almost 6 feet long and weights about 60 lbs.

Skeg fitted into place!
This will be the first piece of equipment actually bolted to the boat. A small milestone. No epoxy or sanding involved! :-)
Backing plate in place
I couldn't find the exact length bolts I needed to hold the skeg in place so I made my own out of SS All Thread and some nuts. Yes, I actually welded these together myself. No Grinding Involved! :-)
Lead weights holding backing plate & wrench in place
This really was a two man job but with numerous trips up and down the ladder I managed to do it myself. Using a big chunk of lead to hold the backing plate & bolt in place while I shifted the skeg into place and put the washer/nut on below.
Wiggling & wedging into place
It took some work to get the holes lined up. The tolerances are pretty tight. Five or six trips up and down and I got them lined up enough to get the bolts through the wedge and the skeg.
Bolted in! Yeah!
Once I got it in I checked it for level etc.
Fore & Aft - Perfect
Using my mockup shaft I slid it down into the pintle bearing to see how the shaft lined up.
Perfectly plumb!
And lastly side to side. Right on the money!
I do have a wee bit of a problem with the rudder stock hole I cut earlier. Dunno where I went wrong but it's out about 5/8". Ooops!
Plumb is resting on edge of pintle hole.
Not a big deal. I can handle it. All in a days work.

That's about it for now. A few more bolts to get in and I shouldn't have to remove or touch it again! It's been a very long time coming to this point. Thanks for following along. I appreciate it.

Standby.

Just in case you missed it on Youtube I did a FAQ's video.





Saturday, June 16, 2018

Latest Youtube video - Need more subscribers

Hi Folks

Offering up my latest Youtube video for your viewing pleasure. I've made a switch to a much heavier fiberglass tape and this necessitated a change in method to wetting it out. If you like/enjoyed the video please give us a Thumbs Up and subscribe to our channel.


Thanks for looking in.

Cheers